Charles James (American, born Great Britain, 1906–1978) “Tree” (1955)
As the first Monday of May approaches, I can’t help but reminisce about the year I discovered the Met Gala and the art of Costume Design.
The Met Gala is a charity benefit held by Vogue’s editor-in-chief, Anna Wintour, to fundraise for the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Held annually, Designers and celebrities come together to create unforgettable looks in the name of the Met Gala’s theme. The event also marks the beginning of the MET’s spring display.
In 2014, I had been travelling and being home-schooled. I began spending my free time making short films and fashion illustrating. I’d spend time watching films and recreating costumes from characters I would see on screen. I had been illustrating designs from Funny Face (1957) which happened to introduce one of my favourite actresses, Audrey Hepburn, as well as the famous costume designer, Edith Head. I began watching more of Hepburn’s work and discovered her relationship with the fashion designer, Hubert de Givenchy. I learned of Hepburn and Givenchy’s collaborations and would watch films such as Sabrina (1954) and Charade (1963) with heart eyes in admiration of the beautiful designs.
The month of May came along, my dad had brought me a newspaper (knowing I was illustrating) which featured the headline of that day, the Met Gala. I was immediately stunned and introduced to the event by a picture of Sarah Jessica Parker wearing Oscar de la Renta. It was a dress which I remember analysing and finding beauty in the originality. I immediately needed to know who designed the dress.
Another design which caught my eye – Dita Von Teese wearing Zac Posen, who was also in attendance. The dress’ silhouette was unlike anything I had seen before. The colours were daring and unlike anything I had seen on a dress before. I couldn’t believe that after watching films and adoring designs on screen, there were events which embraced and celebrated expressive fashion designs.
Filmmaking had felt far out of reach, I hadn’t heard of or seen anyone in films or behind films that looked like me. I didn’t even consider it because I figured, it was a dream and not reality. Design, on the other hand, was tangible. I was illustrating my designs and tying stories with them. I began realising very quickly that I enjoyed writing, creating, and finding characters. Fashion design happened to be a medium which can express an individual’s style, circumstances, and personality. Particularly in film, I find that costume design is an excellent introduction to finding out about characters. That also translates into real life. I enjoy creative expression and individuality from myself as well as other characters and people. After all, the world is a stage. Dress for it how you wish. I approach writing starting with character, always. So now when I look back, it is not much of a surprise that I find myself attracted to fashion design when curating stories. Fashion expresses without conversation. It expresses without any explanation.
After reading the newspaper back to front of the various designs, I grabbed hold of a laptop and began investigating and researching the designers I had come across and the theme of that year was “Charles James: Beyond Fashion”. I couldn’t believe it. The Met Gala was raising money for the Metropolitan Museum of Art and particularly gave many costume designers in the industry a chance to showcase their talents. I saw pictures of the designs showcased in the museum that year and I began sketching Sarah Jessica Parker and Dita Von Teese’s looks. Then heavily researched and sketched the works of Oscar de la Renta, Zac Posen and Charles James. The silhouettes, colours and originality caught my eye, and I began creating my designs and eventually tying characters, backgrounds and a story to them. It was to my dismay when I found out later that year that Oscar de la Renta had unfortunately passed away. Oscar de la Renta had created an astounding life for himself as a fashion designer and someone who inspired and taught me about design.
Audrey Hepburn and Oscar de la Renta during 1988 Council of Fashion Designers of America Awards at Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City, New York, United States. (Photo by Ron Galella/Ron Galella Collection via Getty Images)
Since then, I have habitually reading Vouge articles, watching fashion documentaries and analyses, watching fashion weeks, noting upcoming designers and learning fashion history. It was a hobby and art form I keep personal. The need and desire to understand a character, an emotion or a period in history from clothes was my understanding of my fascination. That particular summer, after hearing of the Met Gala, I remember beautiful blissful days of illustrating designs of my own, imagining as if I were designing costumes for the Met Gala and eventually films. I began writing short stories with characters I got to know better as I illustrated costumes as a form of research.
It is safe to say that fashion designing, illustrating and textile design have always been a big part of my discovery and love for storytelling. Since then, I have been designing in various forms. I cherish and continue to illustrate design as my passion and devote most of my time always expressing and telling stories in various art forms. The Met Gala is a staple in my discovery for storytelling and developed into my annual invitation to reminisce about creativity and self-expression. I continue to illustrate to spark ideas and pay homage to the beginning of my creative endeavours as well as, most importantly, storytelling.
Maria Ahmad